We created this itinerary in December 2021 for our birthday escape. As we both celebrate birthday together, we always either travel, enjoy a wellness or do something nice together instead of buying gifts to each other. We try to create memories. So two years ago from now, we decided to visit Budapest, the capital city of Hungary, as a both wellness and city trip! We flew on Monday and got back on Friday so we had the whole 3 days in between.
We stayed in a small loft apartment with sauna which was a nice bonus for the freezing evenings. The most famous Ruin Bar is just around the corner, but as the apartment is not situated to the street side, it was super silent there. We rented it via AirBnB. In Hungary, there is a lot of these cute loft-type apartments and the rent is pretty cheap.
The city center is around 30 minutes with a bus from the airport. Two tickets cost us 1800 Forints. One Euro is around 378 Hungarian Forints, so it was a bit funny and unusual for us, seeing such "high" prices because of so many digits, but in the end it is actually super cheap.
Depending on when you arrive to Budapest, you can already do something the day of your arrival. We arrived in the late afternoon and after checking in at the loft, we walked to the Advent Basilica markets.
Christmas Markets at the Basilica
These markets are in a small square right in front of the St. Stephen's Basilica in the city center. There is also a little ice-skating arena by the Christmas tree. In total, you can find four different Christmas markets in Budapest, but this one is our favourite. No wonder that it was several times chosen as the best Christmas market in Europe.
We ate a traditional paprika sausage and a potato pancake with a mixture of sausage and vegetables (next time we would probably choose something less oily) and a cinnamon chimney cake (kürtőskalács) as a sweet treat.
We have been to many Christmas markets in Germany and Czech Republic, but Budapest surprised us with the variety of warm meals like sauces with meat, goulash etc. because elsewhere we mostly see fast food stuff. Also, each stand had a credit card terminal to pay with your card or phone (which might have been because of Covid in that time), but in Germany you always have to carry cash.
1. Day
Shoes on the Danube Promenade
On the way towards the Parliament, you will pass by these iron shoes on the river bank, a jewish memorial which represents thousands of Jews who were shot and thrown into the river by the fascist Arrow Cross during the second world war. There is now 60 pairs of shoes attached to the ground with candles and flowers around which people leave there in memory of the victims.
Parliament
The Hungarian Parliament is the largest building in the country and one of the oldest government buildings in Europe. It is located in Pest - as the city is divided in two parts, by the Danube river, being the western side Buda and the eastern side Pest. Its striking size and beautiful gothic architecture will attract your attention immediately. We could not stop staring at it.
There are also guided tours where you can even see the Crown Jewels.
Margaret Island
This one is optional. We did not walk down to the island as we had other plans and places to see and also because it was freezing and on the island there is only a park, some playgrounds, a small zoo and a swimming pool - all better to enjoy in summer. (There are actually also two hotels with small thermals but to be honest, we did not even know that.) So instead, we crossed the Margit bridge, watched the island from the top and enjoyed the views of the Parliament building from the other side of the river. So unreal!
Fishermans Bastion and Matthias Church
Next, we walked up the hill to the so called Fisherman's Bastion, which took us around half an hour from the Margit bridge, first straight along the river and then by the Szilágyi Dezső Church turn right and go all the way up.
The Bastion is a terrace with white fairy tale spires and one of the nicest and most visited monuments in Budapest, providing panoramic views over the city and Danube. Especially the Parliament building looks very impressive from there. Especially during a sunrise or a sunset. When we got there, it was around 3 PM and the sun was already setting down and it looked so beautiful.
Matthias Church is just behind the viewpoint on the square - you can not oversee it. It is huge, with several small towers and its roof made of colourful tiles. It is one of the oldest buildings in Budapest.
For lunch, we stopped in a nice restaurant Ramazuri Bistronomy. It was a perfect place for a birthday lunch. Super friendly staff and nicer looking versions of traditional Hungarian meals. We ordered a duck liver pâté as a starter and then two main courses to try and share - Chicken paprikash (imagine a paprika goulash) with potato dumplings and sour cream, and Tagliatelle with duck breast and mushrooms. We also tried a homemade pear liquor. We were probably just lucky that day and stopped by spontaneously, but we recommend making a reservation in advance.
Buda Castle
The main symbol of Budapest, the Buda Castle, is located on the top of the Várhegy hill. It offers one of the best views of Pest side. There is no entrance fee to walk around the castle, in its gardens and main courtyard. To get inside, you will have to buy a ticket. There are also several tours.
On our trip, we just enjoyed the views, walked around a little and used the toilets inside, hahah. We noticed an exhibition with paintings and discovered, the Castle is actually housing 2 museums - the Budapest History Museum and the National Gallery.
We recommend stopping by the Chain Bridge after you walk down the hill - or take the funicular (which in the time of our visit was out of service). The bridge was also under construction, so we do not even have any pictures of it. But normally, it is claimed to be one of the most beautiful bridges.
Boat tour on Danube
Experience a different side of Budapest from the Danube on a sightseeing cruise and enjoy a welcome drink. Admire the famous bridges, Buda Castle, Várkert Bazár and the panoramic view of the city. Even in winter it's a romantic experience!
You can either sit inside the boat behind the windows or on the rooftop - they will even lend you a blanket. We went in the evening, when the landmarks light up and especially the Parliament and the Buda Castle look so beautiful!
Ruin bars
Ruin bars are former abandoned warehouses or historic buildings, which were given a second chance by filling them with all kind of unusual and random furnishings and decorations. In Szimpla Kert, which is the most famous and oldest one, there is for example a bathtub instead of a bench to sit on, there are paintings on the ceiling, newspaper and funny texts on the walls, various lights and plants and loooots of art wherever you look. The whole place is actually one big piece of art. Nowadays, ruin bars are a significant part of Budapest. People come here to enjoy drinks, food and music, or just to take a look. The entrance is free.
We went to the bar, bought dinner at the Street Food Karavan market and spent the evening in the sauna in our accommodation, sipping sparkling wine to celebrate our birthdays.
2. Day
We started the day off with a good breakfast in Anna Cafe at the Fővám Square, just a few steps from the Great Market Hall.
Great Market hall
As the name suggests, this is the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest. You can find there almost 200 stands with everything you imagine. From typical Hungarian paprika and goulash spices, vegetables and fruits, fresh fish and meat, sausages and pickles, sweets and chocolate, to local handcrafted goods for household or authentic souvenirs. Take your time to explore the three floors and admire the architecture.
They say, the busiest times are early mornings on weekdays, when most of the locals take a stroll to get some groceries, and all day on Saturday because of both locals and tourists. We visited on Wednesday morning and at 9 it was almost empty and even some stands were not ready yet. At 11, when we were leaving, it was fully alive and crowds were coming in.
Liberty Bridge
Our next stop is just a few meters from the Market hall. You can not miss that green iron bridge. It is the shortest bridge in Budapest and the second oldest after the Chain Bridge. For tourists, this is a favourite spot for taking pictures with the old yellow tram Nr. 49.
Gellert Hill, Citadella, Elisabeth Bridge
After crossing the Liberty Bridge, we climbed up the Gellért Hill, which is to the right from the Gellért Thermal Spas. When passing by the thermals, you will turn right up to the hill. On the way, you should meet the statue of St. Stephen and a little chapel in a cave. Enjoy the views of the Liberty Bridge and continue climbing up. On the top, there are several viewpoints and a monument of Citadella (which is now temporarily closed for the restorations) but the views are still worth it.
To go down, take the way on the other side of the hill, down to the St. Gerard Sagredo Statue and to the Elisabeth Bridge. After crossing the bridge, take a tram or a metro to the House of Terror.
House of Terror
As scary as it sound, this is actually a museum! Not the nicest one we have seen (because of its theme), but definitely helped us to warm up a little after spendng the whole morning outside. You will learn about the Communist and Fascist regimes in Hungary and walk through the offices from where the order to shot Jews into the river was given, and the cellars where people were tortured and killed by the Arrow Cross Party.
It is one of the best museums in Budapest. We think it is definitely worth visiting and understanding the important part of Hungarian history and fight for freedom. You can eplore the museum on your on pace. Count with at least 90 minutes - we spent there almost 2 hours.
Lángos - lunch
Finally it was time for lunch! We knew what we wanted and went for Lángos! After short searching we found the Retró Lángos bistro, which is a bit like a fast food chain specialized for Lángos and offers so many varieties! You can choose from so many options, sour cream, cheese or ham, vegetables, meat, bacon, or even a sweet one for example with chocolate and banana! You'll end up full, guaranteed.
Vorosmarty tér Christmas Market
Located in the heart of Budapest, at the end of the famous shopping street Váci Utca, these are the biggest and most popular markets in Budapest. Similar to other Christmas markets, you will find many stands with food, drinks and handcrafted goods, but also a stage for concerts and folklore programs. What we liked here the most, is the amount of tables and benches to sit down to enjoy your food!
Ballet show
To finish the evening with glance, we decided to see the Nutcracker in the Hungarian State Opera - an fairy-tale ballet, coming back traditionally every year before Christmas. On the official page you can buy tickets, this year's first performance is on 24. November and is being played twice a day, almost every day at 2 PM and 7 PM.
We were quite unlucky, because in the time of our visit the State Opera was under restoration work (going on for 4 years and finally reopened in March 2022), so it took place in the Erkel Theater instead, but it was still beautiful.
3. Day
Gelarto Rosa
This day, we had a breakfast in the apartment and headed to the city again. The plan was clear - to buy the rose shaped ice-cream in Gelarto Rosa. Yeah, we know, this is a december itinerary. And yes, we had an ice-cream in December while outside was freezing cold. But are't these roses cute? This little ice-cream store is right by the St. Stephen's Basilica in front of the Starbucks.
Heroes' Square
To our next stop, take the M1 - the oldest metro line on the European mainland, and get off at Hősök tere.
Heroes' Square is the largest and most important square in Budapest and is known for the Millenium Monument with seven statues depicting the Seven chieftains of the Magyars, the founders of Hungary. On one side of the square you can see the Museum of Fine Arts and on the opposite side is the Palace of Art, both designed as classical temples.
The City Park
Further straight, in the City Park by the lake, you will find the romantic Vajdahunyad Castle located on an artificial island. Nowadays, it is home to the Museum of Agriculture.
The highlight of the City Park in winter months is the huge Iceskating rink, which celebrates 150th birthday this year! The largest and most beautiful open-air ice skating rink in Europe opens daily between 5 - 9 PM, starting on 20. November. The price is 3000 - 4000 Ft per adult depending on the season and you can rent ice-skates for the same price and/or even take a skating lesson for 1200 Ft.
Széchenyi thermals
There is no better way of spending a cold afternoon in Budapest than in one of the largest and most famous thermal complexes and natural hot spring spa baths of Europe with 15 indoor baths and 3 outdoor pools, saunas and steam chambers. The best option is to to buy the all-day ticket which gives you access to the whole complex. However, there are some extras, such as massages or a beer bath, which has to be booked additionally in case you are interested. We booked a massage for each of us, to treat our bodies after another beautiful year of our lives!
When we were enjoying the outdoor pools, it started snowing! Such a magical end of our trip. We will be happy if our itinerary helps you plan your trip. Let us know how you liked it or tell us your experience if you already visited Budapest!
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