Italy, a land where ancient ruins stand side by side with Renaissance masterpieces, where culinary traditions are as rich as its history, and where every corner is charming. With this itinerary, we embarked on a 7-day adventure through some of Italy's most captivating destinations: Naples, the Amalfi Coast, and Rome. We did so in September 2022 and it has been the BEST holiday we have ever had yet! And now we decided to share the details, so that you can experience it, too!
Prepare to be enchanted by the vibrant streets of Naples, where the aroma of freshly baked pizza fills the air and history whispers through the cobblestone alleyways. Then, we'll drive along the breathtaking Amalfi Coast, with its dramatic cliffs plunging into the azure sea and colourful villages clinging to the mountainside. Finally, we'll immerse ourselves in the eternal city of Rome, where ancient wonders await at every turn and modern life unfolds amidst millennia of history.
We actually travelled to Italy because we were invited to a wedding there, so we thought - why not to take more time to travel around instead of going for two days, only to the wedding and back. For both of us, it was a part of Italy we have never been to, so we did not have to think about it too long. As we said above, we had the best time and loved every second of it. See for yourself!
Here is what we did day by day:
1. Day - Arriving to Naples
On Sunday, we flew from Dortmund to Naples, changing in Wien. We arrived in the evening, it was around 9 PM when we took a bus from the airport to the main station (Napoli Centrale), which was just a short 25 minutes drive, so around 9:30 PM we took a metro to our AirBnb.
We stayed at a small cute apartment, basically just a room with bed and a little bathroom. Which was fine for us, as we planned to spend our days outside and come back just to sleep. The location was great, right in the city centre, a few minutes by walk to everywhere.
After the self check-in, we took a walk uphill to search for a place to eat. And yes, we ate a pizza at 11 PM! 🤪
2. Day - Exploring Naples
On Sunday, we started off with exploring the city. We walked through the main street, along the sea, enjoying the views of the Vesuvius volcano.
We stopped at a supermarket to buy water and some snacks for the day and then got coffee and a small breakfast at a little local café - of course, we got the typical Neapolitan sfogliatella.
Then, going from the Piazza del Plebiscito, the most significant square in Naples, we walked up the hill towards the Spanish quarter, because we booked a tour to the undergrounds! It was starting at 10 AM and took more than one hour.
Often referred to as "Napoli Sotterranea", it is a vast network of tunnels, caverns, and passageways that lie 40 metres beneath the historic city center. These underground spaces date back to ancient times, initially used as quarries for extracting tuff, a volcanic stone used in construction. Over the centuries, they have served various purposes, including as catacombs, bomb shelters during World War II, and even as a refuge during times of plague.
We strongly recommend you to book this in advance, as it's one of the most popular tours in Naples.
From there, only two streets away, you will find the the funicular station Augusteo. We took it to the very top station - Funicolare Centrale, and walked to see the castle Sant'Elmo. We did not enter, as we had another plan and did not really feel like visiting a museum at that moment either. Instead, we enjoyed the panoramic views from the terraces - find the viewpoint San Martino, to see the whole city, the port, and the majestic volcano in the background.
The way down, we decided to walk instead of taking the funicular again. We walked through the streets of Spanish Quarter and stopped for lunch at Antica Trattoria E Pizzeria Da Nanninella A Toledo. But there is a lot of restaurants in this area to choose from. We ordered the pizza fritta (literally a fried pizza), a typical and beloved street food in this area. The most favourite one is filled with ricotta and pork.
After the lunch, we continued walking through the Spanish Quarter for a bit and saw the Maradona's mural, filled with crowds and a souvenir stand. If you are not a big soccer fan, Diego Maradona was a popular player from Argentina and icon of Naples. This huge mural was to find on the top of the Via Emanuele de Deo street, but you will see his face all over the city.
As we still had some time until the evening, we decided to book another tour of the Neapolitan undergrounds, to see the Bourbon Tunnel. A spectacular experience indeed!
Also known as the Galleria Borbonica, this is an underground passageway, originally constructed in the 19th century during the reign of King Ferdinand II of Bourbon. Initially intended as a military tunnel connecting the Royal Palace to the military barracks, the Bourbon Tunnel later served various purposes, including as a bomb shelter during World War II and as a dumping ground for debris after the war.
On our way back through the Via Chiaia, we got an ice-cream. Then, passed by the Castel Nuovo and got to the AirBnb to take a shower and a little break before going out again.
At 6 PM, we had a pizza class booked! Neapolitan pizza class, of course - there's nothing better to do when in Naples, that's for sure! We had so much fun. In Trattoria Medina, they explained and showed us every step, we were doing the dough ourselves, had to mix the flour with water etc. with our hands, then stretching the dough to a pizza shape, put the fresh tomato sauce, olive oil, basil and mozzarella.. real art! Then we baked it and ate it together. In the end, we each got a diploma!
We booked this experience via Tripadvisor, but there are many of these kind of courses on various sites. You can check out the one we did, or see the one below, for example!
3. Day - Pompeii and Castellammare
Before we move on, we would like to talk about transport. To be able to move around the region, we got the Campania ArteCard - a 3-Day pass which includes all public transportation in the Campania region, and as a bonus, you may use it to visit 2 cultural sights of your choice (from the list on their website or app).
We chose the Bourbon Gallery and the Pompeii! As for transport, we used the pass for the metro and funicular in Naples, and to get from Naples to Pompeii and Castellammare. The shuttle bus from the airport is NOT included.
On Monday, we left Naples and took the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii - a local train line connecting Naples with Herculaneum, Pompeii and Sorrento extremely cheap. You will find the Naples Garibaldi station at the central station and to visit Pompeii, you will want to get off at Pompei Scavi. It is practical to leave your luggage in the luggage deposit (deposito bagagli) at the Scavi station, as they do not let you enter the park with it (and for your own comfort, of course).
Be sure to take water, some snacks and a sunscreen though, as the park is huge and there is nowhere to hide from the sun. We spent around 3 hours walking there and still did not manage to see all of it and were skipping many parts.
We got audio guides, as this is for sure one of the places with important and interesting history to understand when walking through the ruins. You will see many temples, bathhouses, villas and amphitheatres.
Pompeii is most famous for its tragic fate in 79 AD when it was buried under volcanic ash and pumice following the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. The eruption preserved Pompeii remarkably well, freezing the city in time and providing invaluable insights into ancient Roman life.
From Pompeii, we took the same train line to Castellammare di Stabia, our base for the next few days. It is only one stop, 12 minutes ride. We had another place booked there, so we checked in and went to a beach, as we needed to refresh after the whole day in the sun.
When the sun was setting down, we got back to the apartment, showered, changed, and left to walk around and have a dinner. We ate sea food at Capri Blu restaurant, at a terrace with a romantic sea and Vesuvius view.
4. Day - The Amalfi Coast by boat
On Tuesday, we got up early because we had booked a boat tour along the Amalfi coast! Departing at 8:20, we had to be at 8 AM at the port, which was only a few meters from the apartment. We got coffee and some pastry at a local café and then boarded.
The boat does various tours every day and we recommend to book the tickets online in advance. We booked the road trip, leaving Castellammare at 8:20 and coming back at 19:00.
Our fist stop was Amalfi! A picturesque coastal town in Italy, known for its stunning cliffs, colourful buildings, and lemon groves. Highlights include the historic Cathedral of Saint Andrew, the scenic Amalfi Coast Drive, and the charming Piazza del Duomo. There is also a Paper Museum, a hidden gem worth visiting if you are into history and have more time in the town.
We have to say, we definitely liked Amalfi more than Positano, for its charming summer vibe, narrow streets and the beautiful Cathedral. We even managed to find a less touristy restaurant with local cuisine for a reasonable price, kind of hidden. Do not expect a terrace with views, but if your goal is good food and low budget, you are at the right place at Ristorante Pizzeria Il Teatro.
We only had around 2-3 hours to spend here, so after the lunch we explored the town, made some pictures and got back to the beach to board the boat and continued to our next stop, Positano! The Amalfi coast is really picturesque and from the boat especially. You can see all the houses sitting on the mountains and cliffs, you see all the tourists at the beach but at the sea, you are away from the crowds, haha.
Positano is another beautiful coastal town located along the Amalfi Coast, only 20 minutes by boat from Amalfi. It's renowned for its colourful buildings cascading down the cliffside, stunning beaches, and vibrant atmosphere.
Our first impression was, that Positano is a bit too overrated. In the end, on internet you will mostly see that one hill with colourful buildings, from different angles. As for the city itself, we liked Amalfi more, it was much easier to walk around - Positano, on the other hand, is pretty steep. It was also busier and felt too hectic for us, but that is the effect of the tourism in this area and we counted on that, so we were not disappointed, it was rather how we expected it to be. We liked the beach of Positano more, though, as the one in Amalfi was just full of umbrellas!
Some highlights:
Church of Santa Maria Assunta: Admire the iconic dome of this medieval church.
Path of the Gods: A scenic hike along the famous Path of the Gods trail, offering panoramic views of the coastline and surrounding cliffs.
We had almost four hours time to spend, so we walked through the centre and narrow streets in the hills, and ended up at the beach for the rest of the afternoon. On our way back, the sun was setting down and we had amazing views of the lit up coastal towns, such as Sorrento!
When we got back to Castellammare, we wanted to enjoy more of the sunset and decided to take the local funicular to the top of Mt. Faito. What a spectacular view of the whole town, port and the volcano!
5. Day - The Amalfi Coast by scooter
On Wednesday, we rented a scooter! We did our research from home in advance, and booked one in Castellammare, at Fantasy Rent. It had the best ratings in Google Maps and costed us 50 Euro per day with unlimited kilometres, which was really good in comparison to the others we found (100 km for double the price, for example). We picked the scooter up and left to Amalfi the coast again, at our pace!
Our first stop was at the Furore fjord, a popular bay with a small pebble beach surrounded by towering cliffs and a picturesque bridge. The crystal-clear waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea gently lap against the shore, making it an ideal spot for swimming and snorkeling. Accessible via a staircase carved into the cliffside, this hidden gem offers a tranquil escape from the bustling coastal towns nearby. However, it is highly recommended to visit during weekdays and in the morning to avoid the crowds. As you can see, we were almost alone when we arrived (11 AM), but it got filled with tourists when we were leaving (1 PM).
We loved driving along the coast so much. It is hard to say, if we liked more the views from the boat or the scooter. Both was stunning but different. We were scared at first, because you hear a lot about Italian way of driving, but we did not have any issues with the traffic or crazy drivers. The roads get curvy and narrow at some points, but generally we felt safe. Be careful where you park though - we got a fine, as we parked at the Furore bridge! We just did it because there were many other scooters, but did not see the sign prohibiting it, which was a few meters further..
Next, we drove through Amalfi and stopped in Atrani, the smallest Italian town! We parked by the road behind the town and walked back down. Despite its close proximity to its famous neighbour Amalfi, Atrani retains a quieter and more authentic atmosphere. It boasts a small but beautiful beach, perfect for relaxing and swimming.
And that was the perfect spot for us - after days of exploring busy towns and tourists spots, we loved the idea of just laying at the beach. Firstly, we had a lunch at Le Arcate, a restaurant right at the beach. We ate pizza and spaghetti with typical lemon sauce. Then, chilling at the beach, we even fell asleep for a while.
Atrani was the furthest stop of our whole trip. On our way back that day, we stopped in Amalfi because we liked it and did not have enough time during the boat trip. And we wanted to get the lemon sorbet again, haha! Really delicious and refreshing treat.
Then, we drove to Sorrento. We loved how spectacular the city looks from the sea, sitting on the cliff. Walking through the Corso Italia, Sorrento's lively street dotted with shops offering everything from artisanal crafts to the famed local limoncello, was another experience. The heart of Sorrento is at Piazza Tasso, the bustling main square. Find the Villa Comunale, a scenic park offering stunning views of the Bay of Naples and majestic Mount Vesuvius.
No visit to Sorrento would be complete without indulging in the flavours of Campanian cuisine! For the best restaurants, head to the Marina Grande, down to the port. We stopped at Taverna Azzura to eat Gnocchi alla Sorrentina - gnocchi with tomato sauce, sounds simple but it's so delicious!
After the dinner, we returned to the apartment in Castellammare.
6. Day - The Wedding day
On Thursday, we left and took a train to Benevento - a little town in the mountains, basically in the middle of nowhere. Just mountains and vineyards, such a peaceful place, especially after spending the whole week at touristy places. As we mentioned above, this was actually the reason why we came to Italy at the first place - we were invited to a friends' wedding.
It was a lovely day (and a long night, as Vicente got sick - he normally does not drink any alcohol as he does not like it at all, but here he drank a lot, and does not even remember the night - I do though, and it was not easy 😅)
For your trip, skip this day from our itinerary, and go from Sorrento or Castellammare (depending on where you'll be staying at) directly to Rome, the next stop of our trip. You might need to change trains in Naples.
Rome is big and there is a lot to see, it will be to your advantage to have one extra day there. Feel free to use our Friday plans for Thursday instead, or split the three following days into four to get more space to explore each place or to rest. Or, add more things, such as museums, galleries or other places that we did not visit this time - for example Gallerie Borghese must be really nice and it is definitely on our list the next time!
7. Day - first impressions of Rome
Friday noon, we took a train to Rome - that took around 2 hours from Benevento. We had an Airbnb booked with friends in Rome, so we do not have the link for you this time, but can recommend the Tuscolano Nord neighborhood, near the Re di Roma metro station.
We bough some foccaccias at the main train station and ate them at the apartment. We used the afternoon to rest a little bit, before going to the city centre in the evening. Here is where we walked:
Starting at Piazza di Spagnia (the Spanish Square), we admired the Spanish Steps and walked towards the iconic Trevi Fountain. If you want nice pictures and have the possibility, we strongly advise to visit the fountain early morning to avoid crowds, as it is quite challenging to get through the crowds and get a picture without people in it during the day. Did you know, there are tours to visit the undergrounds of the fountain? We had no idea but next time, we would love to see that!
Next, we passed by the remarkable Temple of Hadrian, an ancient temple on Piazza di Petra, and stopped at Pizzarcano restaurant in Via dei Pastini street, only a few meters away, for a dinner. We had spaghetti carbonara and a pizza - incomparable with Neapolitan pizzas though!
After the dinner, we admired the famous Pantheon at Piazza della Rotonda and enjoyed an ice-cream near Piazza Navona. This square really got our hearts, the stunning architecture of surrounding buildings, churches, fountains lit up at night and the overall vibe. We saw a few artists dancing and performing so we sat down to chill and watch their shows. We are sure, this place would be charming in a daylight as well!
8. Day - The best of Vatican
On Saturday, we visited the Vatican Museums!
The Vatican Museums are a collection of art and artifacts located within Vatican City. They display works from the immense collection amassed by the Catholic Church over centuries, including classical sculptures, Renaissance masterpieces, and important artifacts from various cultures. The museums contain famous pieces like the Sistine Chapel ceiling painted by Michelangelo, the Raphael Rooms, and the Laocoön sculpture. It's one of the largest and most visited museum complexes in the world, attracting millions of visitors annually.
One of the most stunning parts of the Museums is the Gallery of Maps! 120 meter long corridor with a vaulted ceiling and 40 fresco maps of various regions in Italy from the 1500's. A breathtaking piece of art, we were literally speechless. It will always be crowded, but so worth visiting. Be sure to take at least the audio guide to get to know more about it. This corridor leads to the popular Sistine Chapel, so there is no way you'd miss it! This is the tour we booked, be sure to check the availability in advance:
After getting out of the Museums, we headed directly to the St. Peter's Basilica, a must-visit when in Rome! Not many know, but the entrance to the basilica itself is free, you only need to pay if you want to climb up the Dome. In all cases, you need to get through the security check and there is no way to skip the line here, not even when you only want to visit the Dome, as there is no separate entrance to the cupola - you have to enter the basilica to get to the ticket office inside and the stairs to climb up.
It is quite challenging, there is 551 steps in total and some narrow passages at the cupola but the view is so worth it! If you want to spare some energy, you can take an elevator to the first floor, and then climb only the rest - which still takes 320 steps from the roof of the basilica to the top of the cupola! The entrance ticket costs 8 Euro via stairs foot or 10 Euro with the lift to the first floor.
There is a strict dress code in the Basilica and in the Sistine Chapel! You are not allowed to enter with shorts nor a sleeveless top. But don't worry, you do not have to carry a jacket all over Rome during summer just to enter. In case you are not covered enough, they will give you a white one-use coat at the entrance.
This stunning Renaissance church is one of the largest and most important Catholic churches in the world. And as for Vatican, it was definitely a unique experience to visit the smallest independent state in the world and to cross the border of two countries in a day!
Last but not least, we visited the Castel Sant'Angelo, located just a few meters from the Basilica, but officially back at the Italian side of Rome. We spontaneously decided to buy the tickets to get in and enjoy the golden hour and views over Rome, the Tiber River and Vatican from the top of the fortress.
Originally commissioned by the Roman Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and his family in the 2nd century AD, it later served various purposes, including as a fortress and papal residence. Over the centuries, Castel Sant'Angelo has been repurposed as a castle, prison, and even a refuge for popes during times of danger. Its distinctive cylindrical shape and towering height make it a prominent landmark in Rome's skyline.
Today, Castel Sant'Angelo is a museum open to the public, which houses a collection of art, artifacts, and historical exhibitions, providing insights into its multifaceted past and its significance in Rome's history.
After enjoying the sunset from the bridge in front of the castle, we walked through Via Pellegrini and ate fresh pasta at Maccarone - Il Pastificio - a unique, authentic bistro with delicious handmade pasta. You can even see how they do it.
9. Day - The Colosseum
On our last day in Italy, we had another very interesting and important tour booked. Probably the first place that comes to your mind when you imagine Rome - The Colosseum! As we were about to leave Italy later in the evening, we were searching for a place to leave our luggage after checking out from the apartment that morning, to be able to explore more of the city and to attend the tour, as you are not allowed to enter with luggage. We found this place called Stow your bags, just a few meters from the Colosseum, where you can lock your luggage up in lockers for as long as you need!
During the walking tour, you will not only visit the Colosseum, but also explore the ancient Rome, the Roman Forum and enjoy views from the Palatine Hill. According to Roman mythology, Palatine Hill was where Romulus founded the city of Rome and where the legendary she-wolf Lupa found Romulus and Remus.
You will see numerous ruins of temples, basilicas, arches, meeting halls, and monuments. One of the most famous buildings is the Temple of Saturn.
The Colosseum is an absolute must-visit when you come to Rome. Picture this: you're standing in front of one of the most iconic symbols of ancient Rome, a structure that has stood for nearly 2,000 years. As you step inside, you're transported back in time to the days of gladiators, emperors, and grand spectacles. You can almost hear the roar of the crowd and feel the excitement that once filled this magnificent amphitheater. While exploring the Colosseum with a guide, you'll learn about its fascinating history.
Do not forget to bring enough water and sun protection, and buy your tickets in advance! This is the tour we did:
After the tour, we walked through Via dei Fori Imperiali, the main boulevard leading from Colosseum to Piazza Venezia. There, you will see many beautiful buildings, such as: Palazzo Venezia, Monument to Victor Emmanuel II, and Capitoline Museums.
Before leaving Rome, we ate another pizza, but can not really recommend the place because of a poor service. Then we picked up our luggage and left to the airport. Our flight back to Germany was at 7 PM that day.
This is where our trip ended, but we carry with us memories that will last a lifetime. This 7-day adventure through Italy has been a journey of discovery, where each moment revealed a new facet of this captivating country. From savouring the flavours of Neapolitan cuisine to marvelling at the grandeur of ancient ruins, we've experienced the essence of Italy in all its glory. Yet, our exploration has only scratched the surface of this remarkable land, leaving us eager to return and get to know more about its rich history, culture, and beauty!
We invite you to embark on your own Italian adventure, whether it's tracing the footsteps of ancient Romans in the streets of Pompeii, soaking in the sun-drenched views of Positano, or tossing a coin into the Trevi Fountain for a chance to return to Rome. Italy has so much to offer to anyone. So, pack your bags, set out on the winding roads of the Amalfi Coast, and lose yourself in the timeless charm of Italy!
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